Tuesday, December 03, 2013

On My Way To Bosnia

I have stated before that Bosnia Herzegovina fascinates me.  Well, I have read about it, and investigated it and I am still fascinated.  So I am going back for a week to travel and  take pictures.
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If you don't remember form last June, Ed, Jane and I visited Mostar for the day.  It is beautiful and odd.  A regular city, where the people seem to get along, but 20 years ago they fought a war and killed each other.  A WAR!  in the 1990s!  And now, most people seem ot be getting along and working together.  It is crazy.
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Bosnia has the lousy fortune to sit in well positioned terrain at the apex of a number of different cultures.  The immediate cause of the war was Serbians trying to carve out part of Bosnia to attach to a greater Serbia.  Although the Mostar tragedy was between Croats and Bosniaks (the Muslims) as Croats decided to try to grab part of the country for a greater Croatia.
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In this most recent case Bosnia sits at the Western Edge of the Eastern Orthodox religion (one reason Russia has traditionally sponsored Serbia), the Eastern Edge of Roman Catholic Church and the Northern Edge of the Islamic church.  Now for 500 years, they all got along fine.  Under the Ottoman Empire - who allowed Orthodox and Franciscan Churches.  Under the Austrian / Hungarian Dual Monarchy - who permitted Islam to prosper.  Even under Tito's Communist Lite regime, which tolerated all 3 religions.  But when Yugoslavia fell apart, Bosnia Herzegovina was let without a nationalistic populace and hateful propaganda drove Serbians and Croats to attack each other and the Bosniaks.
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A still they people are nice and the country beautiful.  And I admit to be trying to get a handle on how this happened and how they get past it.  So I am going for a week to look, study a little and take pictures.
I am traveling in a rough circle from Sarajevo - home of the 1984 winter Olympics and the longest city siege (3 years) since St. Petersburg / Leningrad in WWII.   Sarajevo has been the capital of the region since Ottoman Times.  Then on to Travnik - which is suppose to be the most "oriental" which is how they describe Ottoman like, and Jajce - the ancient Capital of the Kingdom of Bosnia in the 1400 and 1500s.  Finally I will end a few days in the south at Mostar and one of only 2 primeval forests still in Europe.
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I'll problem pre-write and post pictures.
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FYI - that circle is pretty much in the Bosnia / Croat Federation.  I am still a little leery of traveling to the Republika Srpska, which is the Serbian sector.  The Srpska area ethnically cleansed thousands of Bosniaks, including 8.800 shot in front of UN Peacekeepers (order to stand aside) in Srebrenica.  I am not comfortable they would be very welcoming to anyone who isn't Serbian.