I resumed my wanderings and the streets of Old Town gradually faded into the newer city. Not the new city, the downtown business district has been rebuilt since the Siege, but the Austrian part of the town. Expanded during the period when Bosnian was part of the Austrian Hungarian Dual Monarchy. From the late 1800s, Bosnia was part of the Austrian Empire, and the architecture reflects this. Twin Cathedrals attempt to reach majestically, but do not completely succeed in impressing the pedestrian. Not that they are not lovely, but the general building height in this neighborhood matches the towers and the wedding cake architecture is just as pretty.
The square around the Cathedral of Jesus’Sacred Heart includes a number of buildings dating from the Austrian period.
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The grand Serbian Orthodox Cathedral, on the other hand, was welcoming in a way I never expected. Having done my homework, I had cast the Serbs into the role of the villains of the piece. (By the way, I still think that, but I reserve my judgment for the Bosnian-Serbian Military and some horrible men, most of whom have been tried as war criminals.) But the Cathedral Church of the Nativity of Theotokos gives of the peacefulness and kindness of a family church.
If you have never been in an Orthodox Church, the lack of pews is disconcerting at first. My mind tends to think they are half-way through preparations for a dance or supper.